The driest place on Earth is the Atacama Desert in Chile. Parts of it have gone years without a single drop of rain.
The air inside a business class cabin is drier.
I didn't believe that the first time I read it either. Then I checked. Ola Häggfeldt is an executive at CTT Systems, the Swedish company that builds humidifier systems for aircraft. He told Business Traveller magazine that the average humidity in a business class cabin is 7 percent. In his words, that's "drier than the driest place on Earth."
Economy is a little better. Most cabins run below 20 percent humidity. Your bathroom at home, where your skincare routine actually lives, sits around 40 to 60 percent.
I learned all of this for one reason. I got tired of the mirror moment.
01 — The symptomThe mirror moment
If you fly for work, you already know it. It happens in the lavatory, somewhere around descent. You look up into that gray light and someone older looks back. Skin dull. Tight. Lines that weren't there at the gate.
For years I blamed the red-eye. The hotel sleep. The wine over the Pacific.
"The person staring back at you is ten years older." — A corporate flight attendant, on landing
I'm not the only one. One long-haul flyer wrote that she lands with "an uncanny resemblance to the Crypt Keeper." Twice a month I walk off an overnight flight and straight into a morning meeting. It started to feel like every trip was billing my face.
Then I found out it has a name, and that it isn't my fault. Crews call it plane face. It's not because you're tired. It's not your age. It's not the wine. It's a humidity problem, and it happens to anyone who spends hours in air this dry.
02 — The mechanismWhat the air is actually doing
Skin is mostly water. Water always moves toward dry air. The drier the air, the faster it leaves.
This isn't a theory. A 2012 study in the journal Skin Research and Technology measured passengers' skin during long flights and found that cabin air strips water from the skin's top layer rapidly. The researchers concluded that this is likely why long-haul travel leaves skin feeling so rough.
03 — The mistakeWhat I was doing wrong the whole time
Now for the part that surprised me most. At those humidity levels, your own "hydrating" products can work against you.
Take hyaluronic acid, the hero ingredient in most serums — including the one I was packing. It's a humectant, which means it grabs water from its surroundings and holds it in your skin. In your 50 percent bathroom, that works beautifully. There's water in the air to grab.
In a 10 percent cabin, there isn't. So the serum pulls from the only water source left: the deeper layers of your own skin. It draws your moisture up, and the cabin air takes it.
A humectant serum, applied in dry cabin air with nothing sealed over the top, can leave skin more dehydrated than before you put it on. — Consultant dermatologist Dr. Justine Hextall has warned of exactly this
Sheet masks run on the same physics. In a dry cabin, the air drinks the moisture out of the mask, then keeps going. Face mists too — a spritz with nothing over it evaporates and carries more of your water with it.
That was my $14 mistake at 35,000 feet. My serum wasn't bad. It was being asked to do half the job, in an environment built to undo it.
04 — The real answerTwo jobs, not one
So I went looking for the people who can't afford plane face. Flight crews live at 10 percent humidity for a living, and most airlines still expect them to look presentable at the door after a 14-hour duty day. Then I read what dermatologists tell their travelling patients.
Crews and skin doctors, asked separately, land on the same two-part answer. To beat dry cabin air, your skin needs two things done in the same moment. First, water put in. Second, that water sealed under something the air can't pull through.
Do only the first and you get the backfire I just described. Do only the second, with no water underneath, and you seal in nothing. Almost everyone does one and skips the other. That's the whole problem.